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Tree City USA

Monday, October 3rd, 2011

The Liberty Oak

You know what we remember from each of our summer beach trips to Hilton Head Island, SC?

Not the golf courses or the Salty Dog Cafe – the trees!

Hilton Head Island has held the Tree City USA designation for 9 years thanks to its progressive tree ordinance.  The tree ordinance states “No person shall cut, destroy, cause to be destroyed, move or remove any tree within the Town limits of Hilton Head Island without first obtaining a tree protection approval”

If you ask me that’s pretty freakin’ awesome.

Here’s five reasons I like travel destinations with trees.

  1. shade, of course.  It’s hot as you know what down there
  2. wildlife – we spent lots of time watching the squirrels and little lizards scurry around on the trees
  3. they’re not billboards
  4. oxygen – it’s kinda important, don’t you think
  5. watching my kids climb on their branches

The Town of Hilton Head states that trees provide stormwater retention, wildlife habitat, and reduced energy consumption and encourages the planting of native vegetation which is drought tolerant reducing the need for irrigation.

So, why do many travel destinations want to cut the trees and replace them with concrete?  I guess they think buildings and pavement have more economic value than trees.  Planners in Hilton Head think otherwise going all the way back to Charles Fraser in the late 50′s and early 60′s.

I can remember trips to Ocean City, MD as a child where rows and rows of buildings and pavement stretch from the ocean well inland.  I don’t recall a single tree though I’m sure there had to be some, right.

What do you prefer – buildings and billboards or trees?

If it’s trees then check out other Tree City USA communities.

You know why we’ll return to Hilton Head Island next year – the live oaks, sea pines, black gum, magnolias….

 

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Boiled Peanuts, Scuppernong, and Sweetwater

Monday, September 5th, 2011

Guest post by Carl Thompson of Fayetteville, WV

Boiled Peanuts, Scuppernongs, Georgia Peaches, and Sweetwater Brew… and that was just lunch in N. Georgia.  As Doug and I crossed the GA line on our way to the Southeast Tourism Society’s Marketing College in the small N. Georgia town of Dahlonega I slammed on the brakes at the first sight of the smoke of boiling peanuts.

I was born in Augusta, Georgia in 1944, probably ate my first boiled peanut shortly thereafter, and made my first trek to the N. Georgia mountains in the mid-50′s with my parents. I returned there to college in my early ’20′s and later lived with my family in Dahlonega and became co-owner of the Rock House General Store where we happily boiled peanuts for locals and passers by in the mid-80′s.

tending the boiling peanuts

Me and my partner Kevin at the Rock House

The Rock House General Store circa 1984

 

The historic town of Dahlonega is located in Northeast Georgia.  Among the Dahlonega area’s claims to fame are:

  • Known as the “Georgia gateway to the Appalachian Mountains.”
  • Historically, the first major U.S. gold rush took place around Dahlonega in 1828, some twenty years before the more famous California gold rush.
  • Home to North Georgia College and State University, which is the state of Georgia’s second oldest university and the first to admit women.  The campus is located adjacent to the downtown area and walking the hilly campus is not for the lazy!  Very visible from numerous vantage points is a spire on one of the campus buildings, which we discovered is covered with gold leaf from the town. The dome of the Georgia State Capitol in Atlanta in is also covered with Dahlonega gold.

As we toured the Dahlonega area we discovered a vibrant downtown area, recognized as a Preserve America community, which was very walkable from the historic Smith House Inn where we stayed. Dating back to 1895, the Smith House is listed as a Historic Hotel of America by the National Trust for Historic Preservation complete with its own gold mine and a dining room serving delectable southern cuisine.

During my tenure at the Rock House I can’t tell you how many people stopped by to ask “where’s the Smith House”?  Today the downtown square is full of local shops, pubs, and restaurants that complement the charm of the historic Smith House and encircle the historic Dahlonega Gold Museum that interpets the gold mining era.  We spent a little time at the local watering hole, also know as Caruso’s Italian Restaurant, the home of the Dahlonega Brewing Company.

The shops, restaurants and pubs in downtown Dahlonega are well worth the visit.  Additionally, the rich, fertile hillsides surrounding Dahlonega continue to attract major wineries, like Wolf Mountain Vineyards and Winery which hosted the Marketing College kickoff reception Sunday evening.

As we made our way to and from Dahlonega from our home in West Virginia, we were tempted to stop and visit any number of small towns throughout Northeast Georgia whose downtowns were clean and filled with local businesses. Of note were Cleveland, Clarksville and Clayton.

We had to make a pit stop at Tallulah Gorge State Park and take the hike down the steps to the famous suspension bridge for a view of Tallulah Gorge to burn off some of the Boiled Peanuts, Scuppernong, Georgia Peaches, and Sweetwater brew before we sputtered north through the southern Appalachian mountains back to West Virginia.

Though I’ve called Fayetteville, WV home for the past 13 years, it’s always nice to go back to your roots.

 

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Experience The Island…Love The Food

Wednesday, August 31st, 2011

Are you sick of going on vacation to find restaurants with a catchy name serving the same imported fare you can find anywhere at twice the price just because you’re in paradise where they claim you should be willing to pay exorbitant prices for sub-par food?  I am.

This year on our annual trek to the lowcountry we made a point to seek out a Lowcountry culinary experience because we believe the food you eat should reflect the culture, history, and environment of the locale.  You would think on Hilton Head Island, the second largest barrier island on the eastern seaboard, a Google search for “local seafood”, “lowcountry cuisine”, and “gullah food” would reveal lots of options. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case but we did find a few.

  • Experience the Island… Love the Food is the motto at A Lowcountry BackYard Restaurant.  It’s promoted as the island’s place for lowcountry seafood and cuisine made the way “it used to be”.  Back then the owner says “we had no fast food restaurants and one flashing light, we bring back those simpler times along with the great seafood and cuisine that we enjoyed and grew up on”. We were delighted with the homemade pimiento cheese, potato chip meatloaf, and a lowcountry burrito with pork barbecue.

homemade key lime pie

fried green tomatoes

  • Ya’ll call Dye’s and come eat wit us is the invitation you’ll get to Dye’s Gullah Fixin’s.  It’s the only authentic Gullah restaurant in Hilton Head.  Dye’s recipes have been passed down for 5 generations of Hilton Head Gullah residents.  Everything is made from scratch, other members of her family fish for the local seafood she serves, and she grows many of her own vegetables.  We had a great meal of local blue crabcakes, fried chicken, and bourbon whiskey pork chops and Dye took the time to talk with us about growing up on Hilton Head and the Gullah culture.

local blue crab cakes, mac and cheese, and candied yams

  • Of course when you’re at the beach you want seafood but unfortunately it’s not all local so we searched for local seafood and found Hudson’s. Hudson’s employs the largest and one of only two remaining fishing fleets on the island which brings fresh local seafood straight from their docks to your table. They’ve been serving fresh, local seafood at their restaurant overlooking Port Royal Sound for for more than 40 years.  We caught the sunset over Port Royal Sound and enjoyed some wild striped bass and shrimp and grits.

local shrimp and grits

catch of the day

We encourage you on your next trip not to settle for the run of the mill imported dining experience but to seek out one that is authentic, fresh and local.

It’s not always easy but we’ve found it to be quite rewarding.  If you’re traveling through West Virginia you might want to check out the 101 Unique Places to Dine in West Virginia.

You have any unique culinary experiences or other ideas for how to find them?

See you on the trail.

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Peddling and Paddling in Confluence, PA

Tuesday, August 16th, 2011

This past weekend we took the opportunity to spend some time with my Dad, Stepmom, brother, and niece by meeting them for a weekend of camping, bike riding, and fishing at the Youghiogheny Dam Outflow Campground in Confluence, PA.

The campground is located at the base of the Yough Dam along the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) at the start of the Middle Youghiogheny section of the Youghiogheny River.

The GAP is touted as one of America’s best bike trails as it winds along rivers, shaded valleys, and traditional small towns.  It connects with the C&O Canal Towpath in Cumberland, MD to form a 325 mile long continuous trail experience from Washington, DC to Pittsburgh, PA.

The Youghiogheny River has 3 sections, Upper, Middle, and Lower.  The Middle is a tranquil float through class I and II rapids on a wild and scenic 11 mile stretch. Some significant historical events occurred along this section of river including when George Washington led his small militia down the river in 1754 in hopes of finding a water route to Pittsburgh.  He abandoned his hopes when he met the falls in Ohiopyle and soon after skirmished a group of French scouts in nearby Jumonville starting the French and Indian War.

We rented a raft and 2 duckies from Ohiopyle Trading Post and had a fun and relaxing day of floating and fishing on the Middle Yough.

A short walk or bike ride from the campground takes you into Confluence, one of the GAP’s traditional small towns, at the confluence of the Youghiogheny and Casselman rivers.  We rented a bike to explore the GAP from Riversport and upon return enjoyed a cold beverage at the Lucky Dog Cafe.  You can purchase a bike or get yours serviced at Confluence Cyclery.  The River’s Edge Cafe caters to bicyclists offering good food, vegetarian options, a full bar, and a bed and breakfast.

The Trail Town Program® is an economic development and community revitalization initiative working in “Trail Towns” along the Great Allegheny Passage. The program’s purpose is to ensure that trail communities and businesses maximize the economic potential of the trail.

We’ve found that U.S. Army Corps of Engineers offer spacious camp sites at a reasonable rate.  Family bike rides, fellow campers letting the kids reel in their fish, campfires under the full moon, stuffing our mouths with smores are memories of experiences that will last a lifetime.

I highly recommend Confluence, PA as a place to have your own experiences and make memories.

See you on the trail.

 

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The Stringband Experience

Tuesday, August 9th, 2011

This past weekend marked the 22nd anniversary of the Appalachian Stringband Festival, a five day mountaintop gathering of musicians and friends with contests, concerts, workshops, square dances, camping and a hymn-sing. West Virginia masters are presented to an audience of more than 3000 musicians and string band music lovers from around the world.

The Festival is located at Camp Washington Carver which is operated by the West Virginia Division of Culture and History.  Camp Washington Carver is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and serves as West Virginia’s mountain cultural arts center.  The Great Chestnut Lodge, the largest log structure of its kind in the world, makes this site a favorite place for Mountain State festivities.

The Festival starts on Wednesday with square dances, yoga, flatfoot dance workshops, art, and basket making.  These activities continue for the next three days along with Square and Contra Dances and Appalachian Masters Workshops in the Great Lodge and Contests on the main stage.

  • Thursday is the Banjo and Fiddle contests
  • Friday is the Neo-Traditional Band contest
  • Saturday is the Traditional Band and Flatfoot Dance contests

You can find a seat on the grass in the shade of a tree or bring your lawn chair and sit in the field and enjoy the best of Appalachian music throughout the day.  You’ll find jam sessions in the Great Lodge, on the porch, and throughout the many different camps.

It’s a great experience to wander through the camps at night under the evening stars and stumble upon jam after jam and just as wonderful to wake up in the morning and stroll up to the porch of the Great Lodge for some coffee and hear the pickin’ of the fiddles, banjos, and guitars while the sun starts to rise in the summer sky.

If you missed it this year mark your calendar for next August because once you experience Stringband you’re likely to come back again and again.

Hope to see you there.

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An Asheville Experience

Thursday, August 4th, 2011

Beer City USA, America’s New Freak Capital, the Paris of the South, the New Age Mecca.  All titles well deserved for Asheville, NC.  Our quest for authentic travel experiences took us to Asheville last Saturday as a stop off point on our way to Dahlonega, GA for the Southeast Tourism Society’s Marketing College.  We were not disappointed as you get a great taste of Asheville’s distinct qualities everywhere you turn on a mid-summer Saturday night.

We checked into the Sweet Peas Hostel and the attendant showed us to our pods.  With some tips from the staff we headed out in search of southern cuisine, brews, bluegrass, and freaks to entertain.  Here’s what we stumbled upon.

  • A short walk downstairs of the hostel is the Lexington Avenue Brewery, Asheville’s newest brewery.  We enjoyed a sample tray and a beef brisket with southern style cornbread.
  • Our brew tour continued at the Jack of the Wood Public House where we sampled a Green Man ESP then over to the Thirsty Monk for some Craggie Toubab.  One night certainly wasn’t enough time for us to sample all of the local brews.

  • A short walk down Broadway to the French Broad Coop to get on the LaZoom City Tour.  We grabbed a six pack of Highland Breweries Cattail Peak Organic Wheat and a seat.  The laughs started and didn’t end for 90 min. In addition to the humor we found ourselves understanding a lot more about the history and uniqueness of this beautiful city.

  • Time for some dessert and a cup o’ joe in the second floor of Double D’s

  • Every street is an experience in Asheville as musicians, entertainers and freaks of all ages provide unique entertainment

  • Then it was off to Pack Square for Shindig on the Green for some old-time, bluegrass, and mountain music.  The Square was packed as some of the best musicians in western NC provided a free show under the summer sky.

  • We wanted to grab some southern barbeque at Twelve Bones Smokehouse but since they’re only open for lunch Monday-Friday we had to hit it on our way back through on Tuesday and we were glad we did.  The pulled pork sandwich, corn pudding, and sweet potato’s with a Kolsch from French Broad Brewery was out of this world.

Y’all head on over to Asheville and have yourselves an authentic experience in a place proud of its distinct (weird) qualities.  We’re already making plans for the next visit since there is so much to see and do.  Maybe some padddling next time, or biking, a hike in the mountains of western NC, or a brews cruise.

See you there

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A Bed And Breakfast

Thursday, July 21st, 2011

Last week we made our semi-annual trek out of Appalachia and back to the lowlands to my hometown of Lancaster, PA to visit my family.  We met my dad and step-mom for dinner and they said they’d take the kids for the night.  We said halleluiah, lets have a night out in downtown Lancaster.

Where should we stay?  My step-mom, Lena, said there’s a bed and breakfast called Secret Garden just around the corner from her daughter’s house.  Let me make a call.  A few minutes later her phone rang and we had a room.

We plugged the address into the GPS and away we went.  Good thing because no sign, just looked like any of the other historic homes on Chestnut Street in Lancaster’s Historic District.

Marianne Stolzfus

We were quickly reminded what’s so special about bed and breakfasts.  The house was majestic, adorned with antiques that complemented its historic significance.  Our hosts Amos and Marianne Stolzfus greeted us at the door and within 15 minutes we learned about the historic significance of the home and the long history of the community.  We learned how to get downtown and where all of the unique and authentic places to visit are.  We learned about the revitalization of Lancaster and the prominence of the arts and First Fridays festivities.

After taking our bags to our room we relaxed for a few minutes in the rocking chairs on the front porch, took a stroll through the beautiful outdoor courtyard and “secret” gardens behind the home then headed out into town.

We were not disappointed with downtown Lancaster.  We grabbed a few cold Spring House microbrews at the Taproom and ended the night with some canoli cake and a chocolate martini at the Lancaster Dispensing Co.

After a restful night we headed down for breakfast and what a treat.  The three course breakfast was absolutely amazing and we had a wonderful conversation with a couple from Finland staying in another room.  Hard to say what was better, the quiet room and soft bed or delicious breakfast.

After breakfast a morning stroll into downtown was another treat.  We got to experience Lancaster’s Central Market the oldest continuously running farmer’s market in the country with just about everything local you can imagine.  Going strong, 275 years and running.

On our way out we were greeted by a street musician on a piano the city thoughtfully placed at various spots around town to encourage creative arts.

We’ve stayed at numerous bed and breakfasts and find this experience to be fairly typical.  Gracious hosts, unique accommodations, great food, lots of history, and an insiders view to the community.

Next time you’re out you might look for one.  A Google search should bring them up.  Many locales have B&B Associations as well like the West Virginia Bed and Breakfast Association.

Here’s hoping your experience is as rich and authentic as ours.

See you on the trail!

 

 

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Serendipity in Shepherdstown, WV

Tuesday, July 5th, 2011

If you want to experience an Appalachian community that celebrates its history, encourages local businesses, and preserves it sense of place then visit Shepherdstown, WV.  Through good fortune we discovered this last week when we headed there for a meeting with local organizations to discuss their involvement in a geotourism strategy for West Virginia.

We stayed in the Bavarian Inn which is described as “a romantic country chalet offering European elegance and authentic Bavarian cuisine from its scenic location overlooking the Potomac River.”  The Inn was established in the 1800’s by a German family.  We were not disappointed.  The room was very nice, we had a great view of the Potomac River even though we were in a garden view room, the pool was great for the kids, and the food was excellent.  For lunch I had a bratwurst platter with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut that appealed to my German heritage.

For dinner the first evening we ventured into town and found the Blue Moon Café.  The special that night included local summer squash.  We were escorted to the outdoor courtyard which was nothing short of amazing on a warm summer evening.  The kids were fascinated by the stream flowing through the courtyard and under the restaurant.  The food was delicious with many vegetarian options and numerous local and organic ingredients.  I enjoyed a pint of ale from a brewery in Frederick, MD.

A stroll through town and adjoining Shepherd University was an absolute delight with all of the unique local shops occupying historic buildings that are very well preserved, many of them still standing when General George Washington called local troops to join him in Boston for the Revolutionary War.

The history of the community just seems to emanate from the buildings in the oldest town in West Virginia.  Bikes lined the streets as well as recycling containers.   We stopped to read the Civil War Trails markers describing troop movement and hospitalization after the nearby Battle of Antietam as well as the Battle of Shepherdstown.  You can learn more at the George Tyler Moore Center for the Study of the Civil War.

Next time we’ll bring our bikes or rent them at Shepherdstown Pedal and Paddle and head to the nearby C&O Canal towpath.

We’ll also try to catch a movie at the Shepherdstown Opera House – one of the nation’s oldest movie theatres, which first began showing films in 1909.

Runners will want to stop by Two Rivers Treads – A center for natural running and walking and also plan a visit on October 1st for the Freedom’s Run – an event for health and heritage.

I hope our serendipity, or aptitude for making desirable discoveries, continues and we’re able to experience more Appalachian communities like Shepherdstown.

See you on the trail.

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Commemorate the Civil War in Appalachia

Thursday, June 23rd, 2011

This year is the sesquicentennial of the Civil War.  Yeah, I know, that’s a big word that really rolls off the tongue.  I had to look it up too.  It’s the 150th anniversary of the War that changed our nation and led to the creation of our beloved state of West Virginia.

If you didn’t know it, West Virginia was born of the Civil War on June 20th, 1863 as Union sympathizers were granted statehood by President Abraham Lincoln.  We celebrated West Virginia’s 148th birthday earlier this week.

During a recent visit to Shepherdstown, WV we crossed the Potomac River into Maryland to visit Antietam National Battlefield.  It’s the site of the bloodiest one day battle in American history.  It’s hard to describe the feeling you get when you stand in the middle of those fields where 23,000 Americans lost their lives.  The Union victory led President Abraham Lincoln’s preliminary issuance of the Emancipation Proclamation.

I was honored to be asked to be a part of a team that reviewed stories for an ARC Map Guide of Appalachia titled “Civil War: The Home Front” which was developed not only to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the Civil War but also to boost tourism in Appalachia by revealing lesser know stories and sites on the home front that were affected by war.  The stories are awe-inspiring, many of them bringing an overwhelming sense of emotion from the horrors and realities of the Civil War and its affect on the people of Appalachia.

Civil War-related special events are planned across West Virginia this year in conjunction with the 150th anniversary of the beginning of the war.

  • June 25: A reenactment and commemoration of the battle at Corrick’s Ford is planned in the Tucker County community of Parsons.
  • July 6: The First Campaign Tour begins at Beverly in Randolph County with stops at Philippi, Laurel Hill, Rich Mountain and Cheat View Fort.
  • July 9-11: A reenactment and commemoration of the Battle of Rich Mountain is scheduled near Beverly.
  • July 15: Living history and Battle of Barboursville reenactment activities are scheduled in the Cabell County community.
  • Aug. 5: A Battle of Laurel Hill reenactment is planned at Belington in Barbour County.
  • Sept. 10: Carnifex Ferry State Park, near Summersville, will be hosting a reenactment event.
  • Oct. 15-16: Harpers Ferry National Historical Park will host the program “In the Shadows of John Brown – The 1861 Battle of Bolivar Heights.”
  • Oct. 24: West Virginia Independence Hall will host a 2 p.m. program, “To Be or Not to Be a State – The Public Vote on West Virginia Statehood.” Participants will be able to cast their vote on the issue.
  • Nov. 4: Guyandotte Days includes a Civil War skirmish in the streets of the Huntington neighborhood.
  • Nov. 26: A program, “To Guide Our New State: The West Virginia Constitutional Convention of 1861” begins at noon at West Virginia Independence Hall.
  • Key events of the Civil War and West Virginia’s statehood will be presented by the West Virginia Division of Culture and History during Sesquicentennial Mondays at the Culture Center in Charleston. The programs will take place on the first Monday of every month in the West Virginia State Museum at the State Capitol Complex. The museum is closed on Mondays the rest of the month. The programs are free, open to the public and suitable for all ages.

We’re planning a trip to Gettysburg National Military Park later this year often referred to as the “High Water Mark of the Rebellion”, it was the war’s bloodiest battle with 51,000 casualties and the setting for President Abraham Lincoln’s “Gettysburg Address”.

When you’re out experiencing Appalachia look for eateries like Puccini Restaurant outside of Cumberland, MD which served as a hospital during the Civil War.  If you ask to check out the attic you’ll find carvings on the walls from soldiers recovering from battle wounds.

The National Trust for Historic Preservation CW 150 blog has a lot of great info as well.

See you on the trail!

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Appalachian Summer Festivals

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

Summer festivals that highlight the natural, cultural, and historic resources of Appalachia are a great way to get out and experience Appalachia this summer.  Here’s a few that are on our wish list.

  • Love Mountain Bluegrass Festival – Royal Oaks, VA, Bluegrass, Old Time Strings, Gospel Grass
  • 4th of July Bluegrass Festival at Snowshoe Mtn. – the Wild Rumpus, Black Mountain Bluegrass Band, Halftime String Band and the Del McCoury Band
  • Floyd Fandango – July 2 & 3 Floyd, VA – Celebrating Independence Day the Independent way- with music, mountains, and craft beer
  • Bramwell Oktoberfest – Bramwell, WV October 8th – “Do not cease to drink beer, to eat, to intoxicate thyself, to make love, and to celebrate the good days.”
  • Mountain Dance and Folk Festival – August 4-6 in Asheville, NC – showcase performances by hundreds of the Southern Appalachians’ best traditional mountain musicians and dancers.

See you there?  Any others on your wish list?

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